Home//Decanter/March 2017/In This Issue
Decanter|March 2017Scala Dei, PrioratThe Masdeu vineyard sits between the Monsant mountains and village of Scala Dei, part of Priorat in southwest Catalonia in Spain. It covers 12 hectares and has an altitude of 800m, making it the highest estate owned by Cellers de Scala Dei, who bought it in 1835. Masdeu was first cultivated by the Carthusian monks in the 12th century; they named the area ‘Scala Dei’, or ‘ladder of God’. The ruins of their monastery remain, as do their records specifying that Masdeu was best suited to Garnacha. The same grape is grown today, and the vines are almost 50 years old. They typically produce aromatic, medium-bodied reds, which balance boldness and minerality from clay and limestone soils. Pine and oak trees surround the vineyard, as well as rosemary, lavender and…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Whites beyond Grüner VeltlinerWhites beyond Grüner Veltliner From characterful native varieties to distinctive takes on international grapes, the white wines of Austria offer unexpected appeal, says Gabriel Stone Can there be a country whose average wine quality is so reliably high as Austria? This nation of family estates, well managed co-operatives and monastic landlords has largely left the high-volume game to others, focusing its efforts on building a reputation for excellence and consistency. In the Grüner Veltliner grape, Austria found an eloquent ambassador for this message, but producers are now keen to show the world some of the 21 other white varieties in their tool box, several of which are capable of demonstrating just as much, if not more, virtuosity than their de facto flagship. One grape that has the scale and pedigree…6 min
Decanter|March 2017Wiener Gemischter Satz DACSPONSORED GUIDE Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC Photograph: Herbert Lehmann/Cephas In an era obsessed with grape varieties, it’s worth noting an Austrian speciality that adopts a very different mindset, and is intrinsically rooted in the culture, geography and history of its capital Vienna. Not so long ago Gemischter Satz was at risk of declining into cheap, characterless refreshment for the city’s heuriger wine taverns, but in 2013 this unique style was awarded DAC status. This enshrined Wiener Gemischter Satz as the product of a vineyard within Vienna’s city limits, and moreover a vineyard planted with no fewer than three different grape varieties. This ‘field blend’ system has now almost disappeared from modern viticulture, with the only other obvious example being in Portugal’s Douro. ‘One variety is an instrument – Gemischter Satz…1 min
Decanter|March 2017LettersHelp the agedLIFE EXPECTANCY NOW surpasses 80 years in most developed countries. How strange then that your guide to anniversary buys (January 2017 issue) stops at 80 years old. What to buy for friends and relatives turning 90? I recently tried the 1927 Château d’Yquem and found it very agreeable. Might be hard to come by, but nonetheless recommendable!Personally, I will turn 50 next year, but won’t expect any great bottles to come my way. According to The Wine Cellar Insider , ‘The 1968 Bordeaux vintage was the wettest since 1951. Most, if not all wines are undrinkable today.’Gunnar Sonesson, StockholmPurple proseON READING THE article on ‘winespeak’ (December 2016), I was reminded of a quote by Anthony Dias Blue: ‘Ventana Vineyards’ Chardonnay opens with a crescendo of apples, plays some…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Vienna’s wine sceneVienna’s wine scene From traditional Heurige to cutting-edge wine bars, Vienna holds plenty of appeal for wine lovers. Luzia Schrampf recommends the best to visit Photographs: Gerhard Wasserbauer; Philipp Horak; Konstantin Filippou A beautiful view of vineyards, with the city of Vienna in the background – this is the the typical setting for one of the city’s traditional wine bars, or Heurige. They might have an idyllic garden with trellised vines, or a beautiful courtyard blooming with flowers, but what all of these Heurige offer is somewhere to relax, to spend a sunny afternoon with old friends or even make new friends with the strangers who will share your table if it’s busy. They are the ideal place to enjoy a glass of Austrian wine. In years gone by, a…5 min
Decanter|March 2017What I’ve been drinking this monthI had the chance to drop in on Annick and Jean-Marc Lafont at Domaine de Bel-Air in Beaujolais a couple of Sundays ago. The Les Charmes, Morgon 2015 shimmered with kirschy charm, but it was the juicy, high-energy acidity, grippy tannins and that ‘otherness’ which recalls crushed stone that will guarantee this wine its lasting freshness. At last, too, I had the chance to taste Syrah grown on Beaujolais’ granite soils – and the Les Serines 2012 was as convincing as I’d hoped: spice and bacon, with ample darting fruit.…1 min
Decanter|March 2017WelcomeSPONSORED GUIDE Welcome Austria – it’s personal… It’s exactly 20 years since I first reported on Austrian wine for Decanter. I’ve been an unabashed fan and regular drinker ever since. Why? Because Austria has always ticked so many of my wine buying boxes. I like the fact that it is largely a country of small growers who hand-craft their wines with passion and precision. Above all, though, these are distinctive, terroir-infused wines. And they show great individuality in other ways too. As is becoming increasingly well understood, Austria has its own unique set of indigenous grape varieties, which continue to grow in stature and repute on the international stage. The best-known are Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St Laurent. And for those of you who are even more adventurous, then…2 min
Decanter|March 2017Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter1 min
Decanter|March 2017Spain’s great red surpriseFOR FAR TOO long Garnacha was Spain’s wild child. It was the unruly teenager the family had to put up with, but tried not to bring out in public. Just take a look at it now. That naughty child has turned into a cool and stylish adult. Suddenly everyone wants a part of the Garnacha action.And the word is Garnacha, take note. This variety may be the same as France’s Grenache, but Spanish Aragón is the grape’s homeland.So what is it about Garnacha that made it such a reliable workhorse across so many parts of Spain? For a start, the bush vines are sturdy, wind-resistant, long-suffering, capable of putting up with dry conditions better than most. It’s also reasonably resistant to oidium (powdery mildew), though it is sensitive to millerandage…8 min
Decanter|March 2017Barrie’s picks: best buy Austrian sparkling winesSPONSORED GUIDE Barrie’s picks: best buy Austrian sparkling wines Schloss Gobelsburg, Blanc de Blancs, Niederösterreich NV 96 £27 Clark Foyster, Highbury Vintners Reserve Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Chardonnay. From its struck-match, toasted hazelnut nose to its steely, mouthwatering palate, it is quite superb. A real standout. Drink 2017-2022 Alcohol 12% Ebner-Ebenauer, Blanc de Blancs, Niederösterreich 2008 95 £67 (2010) Roberson Grosse Reserve Rich flavours of honey, mushroom and truffle belie this wine’s zero dosage status and make for a richly textured and beautifully harmonious glass of fizz. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12% Harkamp, Zero Dosage, Steiermark 2013 94 N/A UK www.harkamp.at Reserve A wonderfully characterful zero dosage. Young but full of nutty, steely and red apple flavours. If it develops as well as the 2011, it will be fabulous in a couple…2 min
Decanter|March 2017Brook’s pick: Austria 2015SPONSORED GUIDE Brook’s pick: Austria 2015 The following wines are a selection from almost 200 tasted in Austria in October 2016, some of which were cask samples Bründlmayer, Riesling, Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben, Kamptal Reserve 95 £36.66 (2012) Wineye, WoodWinters Indisputably one of Austria’s greatest white wines, this comes from old vines grown on primary rock. The nose is pungent, powerful and very mineral. A hint of sweetness on the palate is balanced by the high acidity, and overall this is taut, intense, majestic, and very long. Drink 2017-2030 Alcohol 13.5% Knoll, Smaragd Riesling, Ried Schütt, Wachau 95 £41.99 (2013) AG Wines Although the appley, mineral nose is quite subdued, the attack is lean and racy, with tension and bite. This wine ages magnificently, with mineral, tangy tones suffusing…9 min
Decanter|March 2017Catalan whites grow upHISTORICALLY, TO TALK about white wines in Spain would be to focus more on the methods used to arrive at the wines. The fortified wines of Sherry, the aged whites of Rioja, or the sparkling cava wines, primarily from Catalonia’s Penedès region, were and continue to be conversation starters. Wines without some splash of unique manipulation tended to take the form of fresh summer styles with food-pairing acidity and little more.‘We don’t even know what the limits are in terms of Xarel·lo’s ageability’ Ton Mata, RecaredoHappily, anyone who has followed the upward trajectory of Spanish wine in recent decades knows that the white wines worth talking about have greatly expanded, with both Albariño and Godello in Galicia and the Verdejo of Rueda being regulars on restaurant wine lists. Despite the…7 min
Decanter|March 2017Hudin’s picks: best whites from CataloniaCastell d’Encús, Taleia, Costers del Segre 2014 93£26.25 H2Vin, OW Loeb, WoodwintersA blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that presents green apple fruit, grassiness, notes of light smoke and lime peel. It’s direct, intense and complex with high acidity that fills the mouth, where the green apple notes take over with pleasing crispness and freshness. Drink 2017-2021 Alcohol 12.5%Can Ràfols dels Caus, La Calma, Penedès 2012 92POA Indigo WineA rare 100% Chenin Blanc. Brilliant in the glass, with apricot, creamy white peach and gentle floral notes. Light and succulent in body, lovely balance and interplay of acidity and structure that don’t overwhelm each other. Lingering floral finish. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 13.5%Domènech Vidal, Cultivare, Penedès 2013 92POA Perfect CellarOpens with creamy melon and light, delicate apple blossoms, notes of mature pear…3 min
Decanter|March 2017A month in wineA month in wine All the important issues affecting you across the globe, compiled by Richard Woodard California wine store owner jailed PREMIER CRU WINE store owner John Fox has been jailed for six-and-a-half years after he admitted running a wine ‘Ponzi scheme’ that defrauded customers of at least US$45m. Fox, co-founder of the store in Berkeley, California, spent the stolen money on fast cars and women, orchestrating what US District Judge James Donato described as ‘a long-running empire of deception’ dating back to the late-1990s. His lavish purchases included Corvettes, Ferraris, Mercedes-Benzes and a Maserati, golf club memberships and spending more than $900,000 on women he met on the internet. Fox falsified purchase orders for wine he never bought, entering the ‘phantom’ bottles into the retailer’s inventory and then…5 min
Decanter|March 2017Where in the world… Merlot plantings globallyFrance 115,746 hectares (13.7% share of the national total, and 43.3% share of global total)US 22,729ha (10% of national share, 8.5% of global share)Chile 10,041ha (9% of national share, 3.8% of global share)Australia 10,028ha (6.6% of national share, 3.8% of global)China 3,560ha (12.1% of national share, 1.3% of global share)Japan 817ha (22% of national share, 0.3% of global share)UK 2ha (0.2% of national share, not enough to register globally)New Zealand 4.3% of national share; South Africa 6.4%; Spain 1.5% (all figures from 2010)…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Letter of the monthLetter of the month Barrel of laughs WILLIAM KELLEY’S PIECE on barrels (November 2016 issue) was elevating. But as I sit, cooped up at home, I feel there is one thing missing: barrel size. Sur lie some mistake. We read Decanter to stave off ignorance, longing to have tuns of information at our fingertips, so I am racking my brains as to why the crucial issue of cask size wasn’t mentioned. We none of us want to be the butt of jokes among knowledgable friends, so in order for us to be puncheon above our weight in wine debates, please might you shed light on this at some time in the future. And by the way, I do have a rich and fulfilling life: I don’t spend all my time…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Andrew JeffordAndrew Jefford ‘To assume that freshness depends on acidity alone is a grave mistake’ THERE’S NO EQUIVOCATING over freshness. Everyone loves the bustling, sparkling, well-washed qualities implied by the word; we’re all seduced by the youth and novelty it implies, and its association with the year’s first season. What, though, might it mean when applied to wine? You could argue that a ‘fresh’ wine is the positive antonym of an oxidised one, since oxidation implies flatness and tiredness. (Reduction, the chemical opposite of oxidation, would be a negative antonym.) You might also argue that freshness is synonymous with youthfulness in wine, though here the ground is a little shakier. Young wines should be fresh, but they don’t have a monopoly on freshness. It’s possible, and indeed desirable, that an old…3 min
Decanter|March 2017What I’ve been drinking this monthWhat I’ve been drinking this month I had the chance to drop in on Annick and Jean-Marc Lafont at Domaine de Bel-Air in Beaujolais a couple of Sundays ago. The Les Charmes, Morgon 2015 shimmered with kirschy charm, but it was the juicy, high-energy acidity, grippy tannins and that ‘otherness’ which recalls crushed stone that will guarantee this wine its lasting freshness. At last, too, I had the chance to taste Syrah grown on Beaujolais’ granite soils – and the Les Serines 2012 was as convincing as I’d hoped: spice and bacon, with ample darting fruit.…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Digging the dirt in British ColumbiaLOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. Canada’s ruggedly beautiful westernmost province of British Columbia (BC) has it in spades, whether you’re navigating Vancouver’s property bubble or the black runs of Whistler Blackcomb.It’s also a vital consideration for grape growers and winemakers in the 250km-long, stretch of the Okanagan Valley, from Vernon in the north to Osoyoos on the US border in the south, as well as the Similkameen Valley to the west of its southern tip.Steep and undulating hillsides rise from both east and west banks of the adjoining Lakes Okanagan, Skaha and Vaseux, creating pockets of microclimates, plus myriad soil types – from sand and volcanic matter to ancient glacial till. Over 250km, the climate naturally varies: cooler and higher in elevation around Kelowna, Naramata, Summerland and Okanagan Falls; to hotter and…7 min
Decanter|March 2017Caro Maurer MWLETTER FROM TURKEY Caro Maurer MW ‘The Turks have just begun to pique our interest’ I CONSIDER MYSELF lucky, in that I don’t have to write about politics. Instead, I can write about one of the most wonderful things in life: wine. Wine usually stands apart from politics; it is one of the accomplishments of cultural life – something joyful and peaceful, bridging borders and differences. Like in Turkey, a country with Eastern culture and Western civilisation, where wine has nearly always been part of daily life – and much more so in the past 15 years. Until politics barged in. Certainly, Turkish wine history has been on a rollercoaster ride over the past 6,000 years – depending on who was ruling the country at the time: restricted in the…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Scoring systemTasters rate the wines using the 100-point scoring system. The overall Decanter rating is the average of all three judges’ scores. The ratings are as follows:98-100: ExceptionalA great, exceptional and profound wine95-97: OutstandingAn excellent wine of great complexity and character90-94: Highly RecommendedA very accomplished wine, with impressive complexity86-89: RecommendedA well-made, straightforward and enjoyable wine83-85: CommendedAn acceptable, simple wine with limited personality76-82: FairCorrectly made, if unexciting70-75: PoorUnbalanced and/or bland with no character50-69: FaultyDisplays winemaking faultsFor the Exceptional and Outstanding Decanter ratings, judges’ individual scores and tasting notes are listed in addition to the average score. For the Highly Recommended and Recommended wines, individual and average scores are also listed but tasting notes are a combination of the three judges’ notes. For the tasting notes of the Commended wines, please go to…1 min
See Also
Whitman County Gazette ArchivesDecanter|March 2017DECANTER RECOMMENDED RIOJACastillo De Sajazarra 2011Bodegas Castillo de SajazarraRío s/n 26212 Sajazarra (La Rioja) T: 941 32 00 66 F: 941 32 02 51 www.castillodesajazarra.com E: bodega@castillodesajazarra.com UK agent: Anthony Sarjeant Fine Wines Ltd. Innovation House, Innovation Way, Sandwich, Kent CT13 9FF +44 (0)1227 833 800Viñedos y Bodegas de La Marquesawww.valserrano.comC/ Herrería 76 01307 Villabuena de Álava Rioja Alavesa - Spain Tel: (+34) 945 60 90 85 Fax: (+34) 945 62 33 04 UK Distributors: Davy`s Wine Merchants The Vintner Jascots Wine MerchantsRioja Alta, S.A. Gran Reserva 904 2007La Rioja Alta, S.A.T: +34 941 310 346 E: info@riojalta.comwww.riojalta.com UK Distributor: Armit Wines +44 (0)20 7908 0600 web@armitwines.co.ukwww.armitwines.co.ukDon Jacobo Gran Reserva 2004Don JacoboBodegas Corral, Ctra. de Logroño, km 10, 26370 Navarrete, La Rioja – España, T: +34 941 440193, E: info@donjacobo.eswww.donjacobo.esFincas De Ganuza…1 min
Decanter|March 2017The resultsWITH 50% OF wines Highly Recommended and above, and just two failing to hit at least the Recommended mark, this is undoubtedly the most successful Decanter panel tasting of the past decade.‘It was outstanding for so many reasons,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘Because of the quality, because it showed how brilliant Rioja is at traditional styles but also in a modern guise, because it showed both classic blends and also Rioja’s experimental side with single varietals.’Despite the enthusiasm, our judges found the two-day tasting extremely difficult, but for good reason: ‘Your body cannot cope with so many good wines,’ said Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW. ‘You have a duty to evaluate these 191 in the best possible way, but with such complex wines you need a lot of concentration.’If there was a…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Outstanding 95–97ptsFinca Nueva, Gran Reserva 2004 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW 98 Sarah Jane Evans MW 95 Pierre Mansour 96£30.99 Berkmann Wine CellarsMiguel Angel de Gregorio, one of the great revolutionaries who pushed for modernity in Rioja, is the man behind Finca Nueva. His aim at this estate is to evoke the history of Rioja by creating wines in the spirit of its great, old bottles. De Gregorio is a staunch defender of terroir – from his basic wines to the top single vineyards. This is his second project, after his stellar Finca Allende, and the first vintage of the Gran Reserva.Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW A rich, savoury example that is amazingly concentrated. The finish is memorable and long, showing that this wine has great…7 min
Decanter|March 2017Catalonia: six names to knowCatalonia: six names to know Altavins Owner Joan Arrufí became the president of DO Terra Alta in 2015, and did so as a sea-change shifted the direction here from large cooperative cellars to the much smaller boutique producers, who have been focusing more on terroir than quantity. Arrufí’s Altavins wines show this wonderfully, with a range of both whites and reds that lean heavily on the strength of both colours of Grenache in the region. The result is a selection of wines that can be deceptive in how approachable they are, yet ultimately layered and complex. Bàrbara Forès This Terra Alta cellar is named after owner Carme Ferrer’s great-great-grandmother, who was influential in forging the family’s path into wine back in the 19th century. Ferrer continues this tradition today with…2 min
Decanter|March 2017Sarah Jane Evans MW• Páganos, La Nieta 2014 A tiny vineyard in Rioja Alavesa near Laguardia that always comes up trumps. The careful selection of the grapes shows in the purity and refinement; it’s all new oak, but that disappears under the generous fruit. 96 Drink 2017-2028• Navarrsotillo, Magister Bibendi Graciano, Reserva 2010 I’m easily seduced by Graciano. When well made, it’s a classy dark-fruited variety, with spice, rosemary and thyme. This is a remarkably refined version, and stands out proudly in this line-up. Organic. 95 Drink 2017-2024• Urbina, Gran Reserva 1994 A delightful taste of classic mature Rioja from a winery that likes to hold back a portion of the vintage until it is really ready to drink: hence the late release of this supple, velvety, delicate 1994. Long, memorable finish. 92…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Merlot:ripe for reappraisal?MERLOT Merlot:ripe for reappraisal? Maligned by some, it remains one of the world’s most popular grape varieties. Forming the vital ingredient in some of the world’s greatest wines, its global plantings are still climbing. Jane Anson makes the case for Merlot Photograph: Ian Shaw/Cephas ‘There are 63 synonyms for Merlot, a reflection of just how far and wide it has spread’ I HAVE A sign downstairs that made its way to my house care of a crowdsourcing campaign by Randall Grahm for his Popelouchum experimental vineyard in northern California. My reward for supporting the campaign was an assortment of old marketing memorabilia that included a small sticker, white writing on a dark red background, that states plainly, ‘I am not drinking any @#$%! Merlot’ (that is, I should reassure you,…8 min
Decanter|March 2017Côtes du Rhône Villages redsTHE NAMED VILLAGES of the Côtes du Rhône, of which there are now 20, pose challenges for wine lovers. Quality is present, but the descriptor is so broad that it’s hard to know which villages are better than others.With Cairanne leaving to become its own cru, the leading names now centre on Séguret, Plan de Dieu, Valréas and Visan. Others of merit, but with limited choice, include Laudun (applying to become a cru; good white), Massif d’Uchaux, Roaix, Sablet and St-Maurice (good white).The difference with the Côtes du Rhône is one of supposedly better soils and more limited production levels per hectare – 52hl/ha for the Côtes du Rhône and 42hl/ha for the villages.The area is large, across four départements – the right bank southern Ardèche and Gard, the left…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Global tour: a selection of Merlot award winners from the 2016 Decanter World Wine AwardsGlobal tour: a selection of Merlot award winners from the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards Platinum Best in Show: Best Red Bordeaux Varietals over £15 Tamborini, Comano, Ticino, Switzerland 2013 £50 For the Love of Wine Smoothly rich aromas with ripe, red fruit and a slight suggestion of oak, and notes of liquorice and green pepper beneath. Full-bodied on the palate with velvet tannins, and a concentrated and warm mouthfeel. This is a generous wine: fine, long and elegant. Platinum Best in Show: Best Red Bordeaux Varietals under £15 País de Poetas, Merlot, Central Valley, Chile 2014 £5.95-£6.99 Broadland Wineries, Hawkshead, The Smiling Grape Co Fantastic typicity, simple and juicy, with alluring character of mature strawberry combined with exquisite black plum, leading to a spicy fresh finish. Beautifully crafted, lithe…4 min
Decanter|March 2017Napa’s new eleganceNAPA Napa’s new elegance In search of wines with a lighter touch, Adam Lechmere encounters a trendsetting breed of Napa winemaker. A diverse bunch, they are all following a path that favours restraint over opulence, and are all worth seeking out AMONG A CERTAIN sector of the wine cognoscenti, Napa’s stock is low. Alongside its hipper neighbour, freewheeling, experimental Sonoma, Napa looks strait-laced; paralysed by excessive prices and overblown wines. One is untamed, the other regimented. In the wilder parts of Sonoma you might expect to find a mountain lion asleep in your vat room; in Napa, the only cougars you’re likely to see will have arrived in a Cadillac Eldorado. All stereotypes are based in truth, of course, but there is far more to Napa than unattainable cults, and…9 min
Decanter|March 2017SweetSPONSORED GUIDE Sweet Nittnaus, Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese, Burgenland 91 N/A UK www.nittnaus.net Cask sample. Although better known for his powerful red wines, Hans Nittnaus also produces fine sweet wines. This has 290g of residual sugar, so it is unsurprisingly very sweet, but also silky and voluptuous, with fine acidity to lift the finish, which is peppery and lively. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 10.2% Schröck, Ruster Ausbruch, Burgenland 90 £39.60 (37.5cl; 2009) Alpine Wines Cask sample. Welschriesling and Sauvignon Blanc are the main components of this traditional sweet wine from Rust. Heady Seville orange aromas dominate the nose, while the palate is rich, broad and creamy, with impressive weight of fruit. The finish is enlivened by barley sugar flavours, and good acidity and zip. Drink 2019-2032 Alc 11% Kracher, Beerenauslese Cuvée, Burgenland 89…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Beyond Grüner: top Austrian whites to tryBeyond Grüner: top Austrian whites to try Ludwig Neumayer, Der Wein vom Stein, Riesling Reserve, Traisental, Niederösterriech 2015 95 £20 Savage Selection A model of cool, stony precision. Absolutely no fat here, but an intensity that gives a sense of richness and propels this wine forward with an invigorating energy bubbling under a pure, controlled surface. There’ll be plenty more to come as this wine develops with age. Drink 2017-2035 Alcohol 13% Wieninger, Wiener Gemischter Satz, Ried Rosengartl, Wien 2015 94 £32.99 Liberty Wines Elegantly understated complexity, with a cool, mineral framework and racy acidity giving shape to a dancing array of spice, blossom and honeysuckle that will become more pronounced with age. Drink 2017-2026 Alc 14.5% Prieler, Pinot Blanc, Leithaberg, Burgenland 2015 93 £23 Clark Foyster A very engaging…2 min
Decanter|March 2017In briefWinemakers in Chablis are hailing victory after plans to build a tar factory near their vineyards were scrapped by regional government and the road management firm behind the proposal. Producers had warned that pollution from the plant would damage their vineyards.Oenologist Pierre Vincent has been appointed general manager of Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, joining from Domaine de la Vougeraie, where he was technical director. He will work with Brice de la Morandière, who has managed the iconic house since the death of Anne-Claude Leflaive in April 2015.Vandals destroyed the equivalent of 400,000 bottles of sparkling wine, worth about €500,000, when they drained tanks at the historic Conte Vistarino winery in Oltrepo Pavese, northern Italy. Workers found the estate grounds soaked in grape juice and skins after the nighttime attack on…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Natural wineSPONSORED GUIDE Natural wine Closely aligned in spirit to the green movement, through its embrace of minimal intervention and low-sulphur ethos, is the phenomenon of natural wine that has burst onto the scene in the last decade. Austrian winemakers are among the most enthusiastic practitioners of these ‘orange’ wine styles, with many of the most traditionally minded producers adding something outlandish to their portfolio in recent years. At Feiler-Artinger in Rust, the charisma brought by extended skin contact has proved a benefit for Welschriesling, which previously only piqued critical acclaim in its incarnation as the deliciously sweet Ruster Ausbruch. ‘It’s the complexity in the mouth, the texture that makes it interesting,’ says winemaker Kurt Feiler. He notes its appeal for a new, younger demographic: ‘They have no idea of old…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Andrew JeffordTHERE’S NO EQUIVOCATING over freshness. Everyone loves the bustling, sparkling, well-washed qualities implied by the word; we’re all seduced by the youth and novelty it implies, and its association with the year’s first season. What, though, might it mean when applied to wine?You could argue that a ‘fresh’ wine is the positive antonym of an oxidised one, since oxidation implies flatness and tiredness. (Reduction, the chemical opposite of oxidation, would be a negative antonym.) You might also argue that freshness is synonymous with youthfulness in wine, though here the ground is a little shakier. Young wines should be fresh, but they don’t have a monopoly on freshness. It’s possible, and indeed desirable, that an old wine might retain some freshness. That’s what stops it tumbling into the tomb.Nonetheless, if you…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Jane AnsonTHE 2016 EN primeur tastings approach. Just last week in Bordeaux’s local newspaper, Michel Rolland commented that out of the trilogy of 2014, 2015 and 2016, ‘it is 2016 that wins’. From my vat tastings and château visits – including one overview in December of 30 samples from 20 appellations – he may be right. But it’s hard not to read this statement without a sinking feeling. Because hasn’t the worst mistake that Bordeaux has made, over the past 30 years, been to hitch its wagon to the idea of star vintages?Setting aside the problem of ‘the boy who cried wolf’, in terms of believing the hype, isn’t this blanket approach to good/bad vintages the thing that, more than anything, has eroded the idea of terroir, and so widened the…3 min
Decanter|March 2017The rise of the bubblesSPONSORED GUIDE The rise of the bubbles Sparkling wine isn’t Austria’s best-known export, but as Susie Barrie MW explains, a new three-tier quality system could herald a fresh beginning for sekt From Champagne to Prosecco, even English sparkling wine, the fizz category is in effervescent form – it appears our love of bubbles knows no bounds. While sparkling is not a style you might automatically associate with Austria, with fizz enjoying such global popularity the country is understandably keen not to get left behind. There are some delicious, characterful Austrian sparklers to be had, and new legislation for the country’s fizz should raise its profile. So what are these new wine laws, and who are the producers to look out for? It’s worth considering the context. Following the infamous anti-freeze…6 min
Decanter|March 2017The three tiers at a glanceThe three tiers at a glance Photographs: Steve Haider; Franz Helmreich Fotograf Level 1: Grosse Reserve Grapes harvested and pressed in a single municipality; traditional method only; minimum of 30 months’ maturation on lees. Level 2: Reserve Grapes harvested and pressed in a single Austrian federal state; traditional method only; minimum of 18 months’ maturation on lees. Level 3: Klassik Grapes harvested in a single Austrian federal state; all methods suitable for sparkling wine production allowed; maturation for a minimum of nine months on lees. Each level encompasses further quality assurance standards. The focus here includes work in the vineyard, harvesting, hand-picking, packing height, rate of yield and gentle pressing.…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Solar ViejoSolar Viejo Crianza, the wineries icon brandAromas of Vanilla, ground coffee and spices. Floral notes include violet and geranium, and fruity notes of raspberries and ripe strawberries. Good tannin levels, giving the wine a certain power and vitality and ensuring favourable development over time.Laguardia is one of Rioja’s prettiest towns. The walled town on a hill top looks out on vineyards all round, and across to the Sierra Cantabria mountains. It is an excellent defensive site, with a commanding view across the plain below.The first castle on the site was in the 10th century, but bell towers are all that remain of this first castle.The secret surprise of Laguardia is its network of underground cellars. The only clue to them is the tiny ventitaltor grilles at ground level. Originally they…5 min
Decanter|March 2017John StimpfigJohn Stimpfig ‘Neither I nor my wine will be relocating for some time’ IN THE PAST two decades, I’ve lived in six houses – none of which possessed a cellar worthy of the name. Our latest move was just last year and was undertaken on the understanding that it was permanent. The house has much to recommend it but, much to my regret, this does not include a suitable repository for my wine. And so my dream of having it stored conveniently at home has been dashed again. It’s a common problem, to which there are various solutions. One is to keep it in bond, but the downside of this can be cost and convenience. Those with larger collections and deeper pockets could create a bespoke wine room or dig…2 min
Decanter|March 2017MatarromeraMatarromera winery was founded in 1988 by Carlos Moro, who decided to follow his roots and come back to what has been the family business for centuries. He was born in Ribera del Duero Region in 1953, and learnt all about wine from his family since he was a child; later on he went to University to become a Doctor in Oenology and Viticulture; becoming nowadays one of Spain’s most respected and well-known winemakers.His very first wine, Matarromera Crianza 1994, was acclaimed by the prestigious International Wine Challenge as The Best Wine in the World, what encouraged him in his belief that he was working in the right direction. It was the first time for a Spanish wine to achieve this award, what boosted Matarromera’s popularity overnight.What he was seeking,…5 min
Decanter|March 2017In briefIn brief Winemakers in Chablis are hailing victory after plans to build a tar factory near their vineyards were scrapped by regional government and the road management firm behind the proposal. Producers had warned that pollution from the plant would damage their vineyards. Oenologist Pierre Vincent has been appointed general manager of Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, joining from Domaine de la Vougeraie, where he was technical director. He will work with Brice de la Morandière, who has managed the iconic house since the death of Anne-Claude Leflaive in April 2015. Vandals destroyed the equivalent of 400,000 bottles of sparkling wine, worth about €500,000, when they drained tanks at the historic Conte Vistarino winery in Oltrepo Pavese, northern Italy. Workers found the estate grounds soaked in grape juice and skins after…1 min
Decanter|March 2017LettersLetters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 OSU, UK Cartoon: robertthompsoncartoons.com Help the aged LIFE EXPECTANCY NOW surpasses 80 years in most developed countries. How strange then that your guide to anniversary buys (January 2017 issue) stops at 80 years old. What to buy for friends and relatives turning 90? I recently tried the 1927 Château d’Yquem and found it very agreeable. Might be hard to come by, but nonetheless recommendable! Personally, I will turn 50 next year, but won’t expect any great bottles to come my way. According to The Wine Cellar Insider , ‘The 1968 Bordeaux vintage was the wettest since 1951. Most, if not all wines are undrinkable today.’ Gunnar…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Napa’s new eleganceAMONG A CERTAIN sector of the wine cognoscenti, Napa’s stock is low. Alongside its hipper neighbour, freewheeling, experimental Sonoma, Napa looks strait-laced; paralysed by excessive prices and overblown wines. One is untamed, the other regimented. In the wilder parts of Sonoma you might expect to find a mountain lion asleep in your vat room; in Napa, the only cougars you’re likely to see will have arrived in a Cadillac Eldorado.All stereotypes are based in truth, of course, but there is far more to Napa than unattainable cults, and winemakers who abandon restraint in the chase for 100-point scores. Napa has achieved fame because of its wonderful terroir, and all over the appellation there are those for whom the commercial imperative is trumped by other considerations.Some, like Aimée Sunseri and Tom…9 min
Decanter|March 2017Five wines to tryDomaine du Pélican, Savignin Ouillé 2015 92£30 ArmitNose is ripe, open and fruity. Palate is rich, full-bodied, complete and long, with fine acidity. Drink 2017-2021 Alcohol 12.5%Domaine du Pélican, Chardonnay 2015 90£30 ArmitVery floral aromas and delightful fruit on the palate. This is well balanced and well integrated, having aged in less than 10% new oak. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.5%Domaine du Pélican, Trois Cépages 2015 89£30 ArmitAssembled from 60% Pinot Noir, 35% Trousseau with 5% Poulsard. Fresh aromas on the nose followed by intense frut on the palate. Delicious, with a crisp finish. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.5%Domaine du Pélican, Trois Cépages 2014 88£28 ArmitEnticing cherry aromas. Lively, ample fruitiness on the palate with balancing acidity and a fine, medium-length finish. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12.5%Domaine du Pélican, Poulsard 2015 87£32 ArmitFine…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Steve Pannell‘Wine is not about winemaking, it’s about sense of place. It’s about growing wine rather than making wine’THE DAYS OF cult McLaren Vale boutique wineries building world fame on brooding reds of massive alcohol and oak are over. A more sensitive approach is in, and no one champions it more fervently than Steve Pannell.The epiphany came to him not on the sunny coastal slopes of South Australia’s McLaren Vale, but in the rugged, remote, rocky hills of Priorat. ‘I asked the local winemakers why their wines fell out of favour and they said it was because they were too big and people couldn’t drink them,’ Pannell recalls. ‘That was like a baseball bat to the head! I thought, “Oh sh*%, we’re doing the same thing!”’Pannell never set out to be…9 min
Decanter|March 2017Gellie’s 10 picks from Okanagan and SimilkameenTantalus, Old Vine Riesling, Okanagan Valley 2013 93£35 Tour de ForceFrom 1978-planted vines farmed sustainably. Taut and concentrated kombucha tea, citrus and wet stones on a dry, textural palate. Zippy acidity and a long, saline finish. Vital, rich and fresh; one of Canada’s best whites. ‘I want you to taste life in my wines in 20 years’ time,’ says winemaker Dave Paterson. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 12.1%Haywire (Okanagan Crush Pad), Free Form White, Okanagan Valley 2014 92£35 Red SquirrelSo many top wines from Matt Dumayne (and consultant Alberto Antonini), but this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is very exciting, made naturally in stainless steel with five months’ skin contact. Drink at room temperature to let the sweet hay, mango and guava shine on the textural, rich palate. Also try the Free Form and…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Tastes of the past: Plaimont’s historical varietiesChacolis, 2014 (black) Brisk tannins, bright and lean with good structure, blackberry fruit, good finish. Genetic links to Cabernet Franc.Dubosc 1, 2015 (black) Not very aromatic, slightly vegetal, with fine tannins and good acidity. The 2014 is more savoury, with a tobacco note. Genetic links to Ahumat, Gros Manseng, Manseng Noir, Tressot.Dubosc 2, 2014 (black) Unusual, savoury plums and acidity; fine tannins. The 2008 has a touch of leather; supple, very pretty, with perfumed wild fruit and length. Genetic links to Abouriou, Arrufiac, Camaraou Blanc, Lercat, Manseng Noir, Magdelaine Noire des Charentes, Pédebernade 7.Manseng Noir, 2014 (black) Very pure, grassy black plums, blackberries; brisk, very long. Genetic links to Dubosc 1, Negret de Banhars, Tannat.Morenoa, 2015 (black) Structured, linear, needs a bit more flesh; slightly vegetal. Not much aroma. Genetic…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Shanghai Fine Wine EncounterEVENTS Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter The third Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter took place on 26 November last year at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Pudong. Yet again, it featured more than 100 international fine-wine producers from 14 countries, and attracted more than 1,000 wine-loving visitors…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Bodegas RiojanasDECANTER PROMOTION Bodegas Riojanas Tradition, innovation and dedication since 1890 ‘We have become one of the most highly-reputed wineries in Spain; an example of tradition and modernity. Rioja has become such an iconic name and has enjoyed such stellar success that, much like Sancerre or Chianti, it has become a brand within its own right. A cornerstone of the region’s success throughout the years has been the presence and contribution of Bodegas Riojanas; having played a role in the foundation of key associations including the Rioja Wine Exporters Syndicate in 1907, as well as promoting and protecting the development of the Designation of Origin itself, the family aiding in the birth of the DO in 1926. Riojanas was established in 1890 and was the result of a collaboration between the…4 min
Decanter|March 20172016 Wines from Spain awardsThis annual presentation (116 wines) throws up more regions, wines and producers totally new to me, so in selecting a potential case of 12 bottles from wines I gave 92 points and above, I’ve omitted some classics. Sparkling: Perelada, Gran Claustro, Brut Nature, Cava 2011 (£22, Barwell & Jones). White: Alemany & Corrio, Prinipia Mathematica, Xarel-lo, Penedès 2014 (£16.94, Alliance); Grandes Pagos Gallegos, Fraga do Corvo, Godello, Monterrei 2015 (£13.99, H2Vin); Señorío de Rubiós, Liñar de Vides, Albariño, Rías Baixas 2015 (£14.50, Peter Watts); Naia, Naiades, Verdejo Rueda 2012 (£20.08, Boutinot). Red: Vega Tolosa, Viñas Viejas Bobal, Manchuela 2013 (£18, Red Squirrel); Celler Cal Pla, Garnarcha-Cariñena-Cabernet Sauvignon Crianza, Priorat 2014 (£15, Burridges); Adegas Moure, Tradición, Mencia-Garnarcha-Tempranillo-Merenzao, Ribeira Sacra 2014 (£21.50, Burridges); Viña Zorzal, Graciano, Navarra 2014 (£13.20, Indigo); Rodríguez Sanzo,…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Evans’ top Spanish Garnachas to tryEvans’ top Spanish Garnachas to try Bodegas Bilbainas, Viña Pomal, Brut Reserva Blanc de Noirs, Cava 2013 88 £16.99 Amps, Noble Green, Noel Young, Soho Wine Supply First ever Blanc de Noirs cava made from Garnacha in Rioja. Bilbainas is a member of the Codorníu Raventós group, so they had plenty of in-house expertise. Could be a little crunchier, but a very promising first effort. Drink 2017-2019 Alcohol 12% Scala Dei, Plá dels Angels Rosado, Priorat, 2015 89 £13.95 Hangingditch, Noel Young, The New Wine Shop, The Wine Society Bursting with flavour. Nothing like the gumdrop Garnacha rosados of the past; this serious and elegant wine, but maybe coming to the end of its best. Look out for the 2016 vintage. Drink 2017 Alc 14.5% Alvaro Palacios, Finca Dofí, Priorat…5 min
Decanter|March 2017The judgesPedro Ballesteros Torres MWBallesteros Torres is DWWA Regional co-Chair for Spain and Sherry. He has studied in Jerez, Burgundy, Napa and Bordeaux, and has a masters degree in viticulture and oenology. A columnist at Spain’s Vino y Gastronomía and Planeta Vino magazines, he is on the council of the Institute of Masters of Wine, and the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union.Sarah Jane Evans MWEvans is co-Chair of the DWWA and former co-Regional Chair for Spain with Ballesteros Torres (left). An awarded journalist and wine writer since the 1980s, she became a Master of Wine in 2006. In 2010 Evans was knighted into the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino for services to Spanish wine, becoming chair of the Institute of Masters of Wine in 2014. She was invested…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Catalan whites grow upCATALONIA Catalan whites grow up A growing number of Catalonia’s most committed producers are working to bring the region’s varied white wine styles into the spotlight. Miquel Hudin reveals the names to look out for Photograph: Recaredo/Blai Carda HISTORICALLY, TO TALK about white wines in Spain would be to focus more on the methods used to arrive at the wines. The fortified wines of Sherry, the aged whites of Rioja, or the sparkling cava wines, primarily from Catalonia’s Penedès region, were and continue to be conversation starters. Wines without some splash of unique manipulation tended to take the form of fresh summer styles with food-pairing acidity and little more. ‘We don’t even know what the limits are in terms of Xarel·lo’s ageability’ Ton Mata, Recaredo Happily, anyone who has followed…7 min
Decanter|March 2017Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW• Páganos, La Nieta 2014 The most emotional wine in Marcos Eguren’s stable, with unique, complex delicacy. In an average vintage like 2014, this is an exceptional feast. This wine’s texture and fruit expression are liquid sensibility. 96 Drink 2017-2028• Campo Viejo, Dominio 2011 Forget about presenting this at posh parties, it carries the name of a big brand, not a boutique. Instead, serve it blind: most people will think it’s the best wine of the night. All my admiration for Elena Adell. 95 Drink 2017-2027• La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza, Reserva 2008 I’ve tasted this for decades and adore its unique yet familar expression – a magic mix of Alta structure and Baja fruit which harmonises with age. The best since 2004. 95 Drink 2017-2024…1 min
Decanter|March 2017MatarromeraDECANTER PROMOTION Matarromera An icon from the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero Matarromera winery was founded in 1988 by Carlos Moro, who decided to follow his roots and come back to what has been the family business for centuries. He was born in Ribera del Duero Region in 1953, and learnt all about wine from his family since he was a child; later on he went to University to become a Doctor in Oenology and Viticulture; becoming nowadays one of Spain’s most respected and well-known winemakers. His very first wine, Matarromera Crianza 1994, was acclaimed by the prestigious International Wine Challenge as The Best Wine in the World, what encouraged him in his belief that he was working in the right direction. It was the first time for a…5 min
Decanter|March 2017Expert summary: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW‘Amazingly, no single style outperformed any other; the quality was almost everywhere’OUR PANEL HAD high expectations – 191 Riojas over £20 should ensure very good results. But we weren’t ready for the quality shower we enjoyed over two days. It was an exceptional tasting: eight Outstanding wines and 88 Highly Recommendeds. Only two below 86 points.But it was hard work: wines from 14 vintages, from 1978 to 2015, made with at least seven different grape varieties and their blends, with various winemaking philosophies and from a broad range of origins, including a high number of regional blends. Many wines were ready to drink, while others were far too young. Some wines showed their quality in their vibrant fruit while others were built upon their subtle oak ageing.Amazingly, no single style…2 min
Decanter|March 2017Where in the world… Merlot plantings globallyWhere in the world… Merlot plantings globally France 115,746 hectares (13.7% share of the national total, and 43.3% share of global total) US 22,729ha (10% of national share, 8.5% of global share) Chile 10,041ha (9% of national share, 3.8% of global share) Australia 10,028ha (6.6% of national share, 3.8% of global) China 3,560ha (12.1% of national share, 1.3% of global share) Japan 817ha (22% of national share, 0.3% of global share) UK 2ha (0.2% of national share, not enough to register globally) New Zealand 4.3% of national share; South Africa 6.4%; Spain 1.5% (all figures from 2010)…1 min
Decanter|March 2017A Burgundian in the JuraDOMAINE DU PELICAN A Burgundian in the Jura Rosi Hanson meets Guillaume d’Angerville of the famed family domaine in Volnay, who is embarking upon the challenges of new grapes, terroirs and local acceptance in his Jura project Domaine du Pélican Photograph: Denis Dalmasso ‘Our Pélican Chardonnay is perhaps closest to what we do in Meursault, but still it is unmistakably not Burgundian’ PICTURE THE SCENE: in the elegant, two-star Michelin restaurant Le Taillevent in Paris, Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay is lunching with his wife, Pauline. This is something he does regularly, following in his father’s footsteps; like many winemakers, he appreciates Le Taillevent’s extensive wine list. On this occasion (the year is 2007), d’Angerville is about to get a big surprise, which will take him in…8 min
Decanter|March 2017Matt Walls• Domaine Pique-Basse, Au Cœur du Ventabren, Roaix 2015 This appellation can be the source of impressive wines in a powerful but fresh style. Pique-Basse is undoubtedly one of the best producers, and this stunning 100% Syrah shows just what can be achieved there. 93 Drink 2017-2020• Olivier Cuilleras, Vieilles Vignes, Visan 2015 Cuilleras is the sixth generation to tend this organic estate. Old vines, low yields, hand harvesting and no destemming contribute to a complex, structured and succulent expression of this underrated commune in the north of the region. 93 Drink 2017-2021• Maxime-François Laurent, Orpiment, Visan 2015 Maxime-François Laurent is the son of Michèle Aubèry-Laurent of Domaine Gramenon (left), and his wines are cut from the same technicolour cloth. This has bright, juicy berry flavours – concentrated but so…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Expert summary: John Livingstone-Learmonth‘The top three estates are linked by vines at 200m or higher, allowing their wines to be fresh and detailed’IT WAS GRATIFYING to see that the top three wines were all organic, and across the leaderboard there were plenty of organic or biodynamic names. The quality was undoubtedly aided by 2015’s healthy growing season.To the fore came Domaine Pique-Basse, a rare standard-bearer for Roaix, which lost one of its high-profile names in Domaine Santa Duc when Yves Gras decided his Roaix was too difficult to sell, and reverted to blending it into Les Quatre Terres, his Côtes du Rhône. Olivier Tropet’s Au Coeur de Ventabren 1970s Syrah is vinified with a semi-carbonic maceration.Domaine Gramenon has been a benchmark organicbiodynamic, low-sulphur-use address since the 1970s. Owner-winemaker Michèle Laurent also makes a…2 min
Decanter|March 2017John StimpfigIN THE PAST two decades, I’ve lived in six houses – none of which possessed a cellar worthy of the name. Our latest move was just last year and was undertaken on the understanding that it was permanent. The house has much to recommend it but, much to my regret, this does not include a suitable repository for my wine. And so my dream of having it stored conveniently at home has been dashed again.It’s a common problem, to which there are various solutions. One is to keep it in bond, but the downside of this can be cost and convenience. Those with larger collections and deeper pockets could create a bespoke wine room or dig a Spiral Cellar. Those of us with more modest resources can buy a wine…2 min
Decanter|March 2017A month in wineCalifornia wine store owner jailedPREMIER CRU WINE store owner John Fox has been jailed for six-and-a-half years after he admitted running a wine ‘Ponzi scheme’ that defrauded customers of at least US$45m.Fox, co-founder of the store in Berkeley, California, spent the stolen money on fast cars and women, orchestrating what US District Judge James Donato described as ‘a long-running empire of deception’ dating back to the late-1990s.His lavish purchases included Corvettes, Ferraris, Mercedes-Benzes and a Maserati, golf club memberships and spending more than $900,000 on women he met on the internet.Fox falsified purchase orders for wine he never bought, entering the ‘phantom’ bottles into the retailer’s inventory and then selling it on to customers.Between 2010 and 2015 alone, according to his plea agreement, Fox sold or caused Premier Cru’s salespeople…5 min
Decanter|March 2017Going greenSPONSORED GUIDE Going green Austria’s winemakers are actively tackling environmental issues in a number of ways. Gabriel Stone reports on their efforts and explains the effect the changes are having on their wines Photograph: Andreas Hofer Home to pristine mountain pastures, the gliding blue Danube and biodynamic guru Rudolf Steiner: it makes sense that Austria should be one of the world’s more ecologically aware countries. However, being ‘green’ can take many different guises, some more measurable than others, with varying impacts on the environment, the local community – and, of course, the bottom line. Then there’s the tantalisingly intangible question of just what effect, if any, this worthy work has on quality inside the bottle. Most winemakers who have adopted environmentally friendly practices will say that they find a discernible…7 min
Decanter|March 2017Letter of the monthWILLIAM KELLEY’S PIECE on barrels (November 2016 issue) was elevating. But as I sit, cooped up at home, I feel there is one thing missing: barrel size. Sur lie some mistake. We read Decanter to stave off ignorance, longing to have tuns of information at our fingertips, so I am racking my brains as to why the crucial issue of cask size wasn’t mentioned. We none of us want to be the butt of jokes among knowledgable friends, so in order for us to be puncheon above our weight in wine debates, please might you shed light on this at some time in the future. And by the way, I do have a rich and fulfilling life: I don’t spend all my time on puns – that woud be sad…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Austrian appealSPONSORED GUIDE Austrian appeal There’s currently a real buzz around Austria’s wine scene. Experts tell Natasha Hughes MW why wine lovers should be excited For a long time, Austrian wine meant only one thing: Grüner Veltliner. While it’s certainly true that Grüner can be great, Austria certainly repays further exploration. Its diverse range of grapes, nuances in terroir and a plethora of small, family-owned wineries all add up to a surprising amount of variety for such a small country. Here, leading sommeliers and merchants in the UK explain its appeal. Lance Foyster MW Clark Foyster Wines ‘When we first started selling Austrian wines Riesling dominated the market, but it was later eclipsed by Grüner, which is a shame because Austrian Riesling is fantastic. It distinctly shows the grape’s varietal characters,…5 min
Decanter|March 2017Austria’s native reds: a tastingSPONSORED GUIDE Austria’s native reds: a tasting Introduced by Stephen Brook ‘The indigenous varieties are perfectly adapted to Austria’s terroirs and microclimates’ Whites make the running in Austria, with its panoply of glorious Grüner (and Roter) Veltliners, Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, and handful of rare indigenous varieties. But the reds now need to be taken seriously too. Twenty years ago, growers persuaded themselves that French varieties were intrinsically superior to Austrian, and that you could never use too much new oak. It wasn’t too long before most of those growers realised that French varieties rarely succeeded in Austria’s more continental climate. Cabernet barely ripens, Syrah and Pinot Noir are variable, although Merlot can deliver good results, especially in blends. But the indigenous varieties are perfectly adapted to Austria’s terroirs and microclimates.…11 min
Decanter|March 2017Caro Maurer MWI CONSIDER MYSELF lucky, in that I don’t have to write about politics. Instead, I can write about one of the most wonderful things in life: wine. Wine usually stands apart from politics; it is one of the accomplishments of cultural life – something joyful and peaceful, bridging borders and differences. Like in Turkey, a country with Eastern culture and Western civilisation, where wine has nearly always been part of daily life – and much more so in the past 15 years. Until politics barged in.Certainly, Turkish wine history has been on a rollercoaster ride over the past 6,000 years – depending on who was ruling the country at the time: restricted in the Ottoman period, but later supported again by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. When Tekel, the monopoly system controlling…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Bodegas Riojanas‘We have become one of the most highly-reputed wineries in Spain; an example of tradition and modernity.Rioja has become such an iconic name and has enjoyed such stellar success that, much like Sancerre or Chianti, it has become a brand within its own right.A cornerstone of the region’s success throughout the years has been the presence and contribution of Bodegas Riojanas; having played a role in the foundation of key associations including the Rioja Wine Exporters Syndicate in 1907, as well as promoting and protecting the development of the Designation of Origin itself, the family aiding in the birth of the DO in 1926.Riojanas was established in 1890 and was the result of a collaboration between the Frias Artacho family – who had a deep-rooted winemaking tradition stretching back centuries…4 min
Decanter|March 2017Garnacha around SpainRiojaA mix of soils, but limestone is important. Especially successful in Rioja Baja, particularly Monte Yerga and Tudelilla. Wines offer supple red fruit. Successful ageing in American or French oak and blending with other Rioja varieties.CataloniaPriorat: mixed brown and blue slate soils as well as clay. Bold wines with tannins, often showing pure mineral influence and frequently blended with Cariñena. Wines are typically aged in French oak rather than American, but amphorae and concrete are also used.Montsant: try the wines of Acústic, Espectacle and Alfredo Arribas – both white and red.NavarraOnce a very promising prospect, but few Garnacha vines now. Clay, limestone and some plots of slate. Old bush vines, low yields. Ripe, generous fruit, well structured and aromatic. Producers to look for: Artazu, La Calandria Pura.GredosOld bush vines on…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Scala Dei, PrioratThe joy of terroir Scala Dei, Priorat The Masdeu vineyard sits between the Monsant mountains and village of Scala Dei, part of Priorat in southwest Catalonia in Spain. It covers 12 hectares and has an altitude of 800m, making it the highest estate owned by Cellers de Scala Dei, who bought it in 1835. Masdeu was first cultivated by the Carthusian monks in the 12th century; they named the area ‘Scala Dei’, or ‘ladder of God’. The ruins of their monastery remain, as do their records specifying that Masdeu was best suited to Garnacha. The same grape is grown today, and the vines are almost 50 years old. They typically produce aromatic, medium-bodied reds, which balance boldness and minerality from clay and limestone soils. Pine and oak trees surround the…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Catalonia: six names to knowAltavinsOwner Joan Arrufí became the president of DO Terra Alta in 2015, and did so as a sea-change shifted the direction here from large cooperative cellars to the much smaller boutique producers, who have been focusing more on terroir than quantity. Arrufí’s Altavins wines show this wonderfully, with a range of both whites and reds that lean heavily on the strength of both colours of Grenache in the region. The result is a selection of wines that can be deceptive in how approachable they are, yet ultimately layered and complex.Bàrbara ForèsThis Terra Alta cellar is named after owner Carme Ferrer’s great-great-grandmother, who was influential in forging the family’s path into wine back in the 19th century. Ferrer continues this tradition today with both white and red wines that do a…2 min
Decanter|March 2017Merlot:ripe for reappraisal?‘There are 63 synonyms for Merlot, a reflection of just how far and wide it has spread’I HAVE A sign downstairs that made its way to my house care of a crowdsourcing campaign by Randall Grahm for his Popelouchum experimental vineyard in northern California. My reward for supporting the campaign was an assortment of old marketing memorabilia that included a small sticker, white writing on a dark red background, that states plainly, ‘I am not drinking any @#$%! Merlot’ (that is, I should reassure you, how it is actually spelled).This is – besides being the name of one of Grahm’s more recent Bonny Doon wines – a quotation taken from the 2004 movie set in California wine country, Sideways. You know the one: Miles walking into a bar with Jack,…9 min
Decanter|March 2017Six world-famous MerlotsPetrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux Just under 11ha of Merlot located on the famous Pomerol blue clay, owned by Jean-François and Jean Moueix. Makes around 30,000 bottles per year. Average price per bottle is an eyewatering £1,821 before tax, according to Wine-Searcher.Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Masseto, Bolgheri, Tuscany 100% Merlot from the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia stable in Bolgheri, owned by Marchesi de’Frescobaldi. Production stands at around 32,000 bottles a ear, about one-fifth as much as Ornellaia, and at about three times the price. Masseto was the top-selling Italian wine by value at Sotheby’s in 2013, fetching an average of US$600 per bottle.La Mondotte, St-Emilion 1GCCB, Bordeaux Cult wine from Stephan von Neipperg that was first produced in 1996 following a failed application to the regional classification to enlarge his Château Canon La Gaffelière. Production is…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Global tour: a selection of Merlot award winners from the 2016 Decanter World Wine AwardsTamborini, Comano, Ticino, Switzerland 2013£50 For the Love of WineSmoothly rich aromas with ripe, red fruit and a slight suggestion of oak, and notes of liquorice and green pepper beneath. Full-bodied on the palate with velvet tannins, and a concentrated and warm mouthfeel. This is a generous wine: fine, long and elegant.Platinum Best in Show: Best Red Bordeaux Varietals under £15 País de Poetas, Merlot, Central Valley, Chile 2014£5.95-£6.99 Broadland Wineries, Hawkshead, The Smiling Grape CoFantastic typicity, simple and juicy, with alluring character of mature strawberry combined with exquisite black plum, leading to a spicy fresh finish. Beautifully crafted, lithe and unpretentious, yet with some complexity and personality.Silver Bird in Hand, Two in the Bush Merlot-Cabernet, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2014£12.95 TannersPlush, lush and plummy, rich with damson, black cherry…4 min
Decanter|March 2017A Burgundian in the Jura‘Our Pélican Chardonnay is perhaps closest to what we do in Meursault, but still it is unmistakably not Burgundian’PICTURE THE SCENE: in the elegant, two-star Michelin restaurant Le Taillevent in Paris, Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay is lunching with his wife, Pauline. This is something he does regularly, following in his father’s footsteps; like many winemakers, he appreciates Le Taillevent’s extensive wine list. On this occasion (the year is 2007), d’Angerville is about to get a big surprise, which will take him in a new direction.It is his habit to ask the sommelier to pick a white wine, not Burgundy, and serve it to them blind. The wine is poured, the sommelier withdraws. ‘It’s definitely a Chardonnay; it’s a Burgundy – he must have forgotten the rule,’…8 min
Decanter|March 2017La Rioja Alta, S.A. Viña ArdanzaLa Rioja Alta, S.A. is a company steeped in history. The Sociedad Vinícola de la Rioja Alta, was founded in 1890 by five Rioja families, each of which is still involved as a shareholder, five generations later. The inaugural president was a woman, Doña Saturnina García Cid y Gárate and the first winemaker was a Frenchman, Albert Vigier, whose initial cuvée was the Reserva 1890, the predecessor of today’s Gran Reserva 890. The excellence of Vigier’s wines was quickly recognised in the form of medals at major wine competitions in Bordeaux and Chicago.La Rioja Alta, S.A. is a major Spanish company with renowned wineries in Rioja Alavesa (Torre de Oña), Ribera del Duero (Aster) and Rías Baixas (Lagar de Cervera) as well from vineyards across the Rioja DOCa, and its…4 min
Decanter|March 2017Jane AnsonJane Anson ‘Since 1982, Bordeaux has lived and died on ‘the next great year’ THE 2016 EN primeur tastings approach. Just last week in Bordeaux’s local newspaper, Michel Rolland commented that out of the trilogy of 2014, 2015 and 2016, ‘it is 2016 that wins’. From my vat tastings and château visits – including one overview in December of 30 samples from 20 appellations – he may be right. But it’s hard not to read this statement without a sinking feeling. Because hasn’t the worst mistake that Bordeaux has made, over the past 30 years, been to hitch its wagon to the idea of star vintages? Setting aside the problem of ‘the boy who cried wolf’, in terms of believing the hype, isn’t this blanket approach to good/bad vintages the…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Plaimont: grape crusader‘The genetic variety of old vines can offer answers that modern clones cannot’AREN’T THERE ENOUGH varieties of wine grape in the world? Isn’t some 1,400 known varieties enough for anybody? To which the curious, or the historically oriented, will answer: but what has been lost? Where did they come from, those 1,400 varieties? Who were their parents, and can they still be found? And what odds did they overcome in order to survive and become known?Some of those questions are unanswerable. But an ampelographic conference held at Producteurs de Plaimont, a major cooperative producer in southwest France, last September shone a light into some of the shadowy corners of vine history, and at the very least showed how much we don’t know.Take Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. Originating in southwest France,…6 min
Decanter|March 2017The Decanter guaranteeOur buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar.Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores.Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are not revealed, and thus not taken into consideration when…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Spurrier’s World‘The symposium was a complete revelation, covering seven varieties across 10 DOCs’Collisioni on the roadCollisioni (www.collisoni.it) is Italy’s largest music, literature and wine festival and is held annually in Barolo. Last year was the eighth edition, which saw, among many others, Elton John in concert and interviews with writer Richard Ford, filmmaker Atom Egoyan and Nobel Prize in Literature winner Svetlana Alexievich. More than 100,000 people convene mid-July in Piedmont’s most famous wine town, and clearly wine plays a major role.I was invited, along with Decanter’s Sarah Kemp and Stephen Brook, by Ian D’Agata, Collisoni’s creative director in 2014. Author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy, D’Agata has set up Agrilab – the educational arm of Collisioni, which is housed in the renovated courtyard of the Castello di Barolo –…4 min
Decanter|March 2017Spain’s great red surpriseGARNACHA Spain’s great red surprise Garnacha has always gone under the radar, overshadowed as it is by Spain’s star Tempranillo wines. So why is it the grape on everyone’s lips now? Sarah Jane Evans MW investigates Photograph:Mike Prior FOR FAR TOO long Garnacha was Spain’s wild child. It was the unruly teenager the family had to put up with, but tried not to bring out in public. Just take a look at it now. That naughty child has turned into a cool and stylish adult. Suddenly everyone wants a part of the Garnacha action. And the word is Garnacha, take note. This variety may be the same as France’s Grenache, but Spanish Aragón is the grape’s homeland. So what is it about Garnacha that made it such a reliable workhorse…8 min
Decanter|March 2017Garnacha around SpainGarnacha around Spain Rioja A mix of soils, but limestone is important. Especially successful in Rioja Baja, particularly Monte Yerga and Tudelilla. Wines offer supple red fruit. Successful ageing in American or French oak and blending with other Rioja varieties. Catalonia Priorat: mixed brown and blue slate soils as well as clay. Bold wines with tannins, often showing pure mineral influence and frequently blended with Cariñena. Wines are typically aged in French oak rather than American, but amphorae and concrete are also used. Montsant: try the wines of Acústic, Espectacle and Alfredo Arribas – both white and red. Navarra Once a very promising prospect, but few Garnacha vines now. Clay, limestone and some plots of slate. Old bush vines, low yields. Ripe, generous fruit, well structured and aromatic. Producers to…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Premium red RiojaDESPITE BEING THE most renowned Spanish wine, few people understand the complexity, quality and diversity in Rioja. The region owes its fame to the same reason that precludes it from being fully appreciated: the vast amount of easygoing, oaky, bland, cheap, uniform wines sold as Rioja crianza. These wines are perfect for wine drinkers looking for a simple red. Some consumers whose palates are more mature will soon want to move up the quality ladder; sadly, however, most will not venture any further, thinking erroneously that Rioja has little else to offer. This is a pity, as premium Rioja is a classic fine wine category.Thanks to its diversity, Rioja is more akin to a wine country than an appellation. Few regions can claim to excel in both young and old…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Solar ViejoDECANTER PROMOTION Solar Viejo The Freixenet family’s journey to Rioja Solar Viejo Crianza, the wineries icon brand Aromas of Vanilla, ground coffee and spices. Floral notes include violet and geranium, and fruity notes of raspberries and ripe strawberries. Good tannin levels, giving the wine a certain power and vitality and ensuring favourable development over time. Laguardia is one of Rioja’s prettiest towns. The walled town on a hill top looks out on vineyards all round, and across to the Sierra Cantabria mountains. It is an excellent defensive site, with a commanding view across the plain below.The first castle on the site was in the 10th century, but bell towers are all that remain of this first castle. The secret surprise of Laguardia is its network of underground cellars. The only…5 min
Decanter|March 2017Hudin’s picks: best whites from CataloniaHudin’s picks: best whites from Catalonia Castell d’Encús, Taleia, Costers del Segre 2014 93 £26.25 H2Vin, OW Loeb, Woodwinters A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that presents green apple fruit, grassiness, notes of light smoke and lime peel. It’s direct, intense and complex with high acidity that fills the mouth, where the green apple notes take over with pleasing crispness and freshness. Drink 2017-2021 Alcohol 12.5% Can Ràfols dels Caus, La Calma, Penedès 2012 92 POA Indigo Wine A rare 100% Chenin Blanc. Brilliant in the glass, with apricot, creamy white peach and gentle floral notes. Light and succulent in body, lovely balance and interplay of acidity and structure that don’t overwhelm each other. Lingering floral finish. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 13.5% Domènech Vidal, Cultivare, Penedès 2013 92 POA Perfect…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Pierre Mansour• Páganos, La Nieta 2014 Consistently one of Rioja’s finest expressions of Tempranillo. The 2014 has superb clarity, depth and concentration. It manages to be both flamboyant and elegant, and will age with ease. 97 Drink 2017-2028• La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza, Reserva 2008 La Rioja Alta is a specialist when it comes to barrel ageing and its wines are released ready to drink. This superb reserva has wonderful savoury complexity, silky tannins and a smooth, long finish. A benchmark example of traditionally framed Rioja. 95 Drink 2017-2024• Bodegas Palacio, Glorioso Gran Reserva 1978 Based in Laguardia in the heart of Alavesa, this estate has undergone a transformation in the past 10 years. If you come across this rare 39-year-old release, you shouldn’t hesitate to snap it up. This is…1 min
Decanter|March 2017Six world-famous MerlotsSix world-famous Merlots Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux Just under 11ha of Merlot located on the famous Pomerol blue clay, owned by Jean-François and Jean Moueix. Makes around 30,000 bottles per year. Average price per bottle is an eyewatering £1,821 before tax, according to Wine-Searcher. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Masseto, Bolgheri, Tuscany 100% Merlot from the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia stable in Bolgheri, owned by Marchesi de’Frescobaldi. Production stands at around 32,000 bottles a ear, about one-fifth as much as Ornellaia, and at about three times the price. Masseto was the top-selling Italian wine by value at Sotheby’s in 2013, fetching an average of US$600 per bottle. La Mondotte, St-Emilion 1GCCB, Bordeaux Cult wine from Stephan von Neipperg that was first produced in 1996 following a failed application to the regional classification to enlarge his Château…1 min
Decanter|March 2017The resultsOUR TRIO OF Rhône experts found this a sound but somewhat uninspiring tasting. Matt Walls felt the quality on display wasn’t as high as he had hoped – partly because many of the wines came from the challenging 2014 vintage. According to John Livingstone-Learmonth, the standard of winemaking was acceptable, excepting a few faults from oxidation or brettanomyces. Simon Field felt that some producers were trying too hard with their winemaking and ‘pushing things too far’.But their overwhelming collective beef was that they generally didn’t find the enjoyment or definition they were looking for from the various villages on show. Instead, Livingstone-Learmonth came away feeling that the tasting illustrated some of the problems of AP Côte du Rhône Villages. ‘The difficulty producers face is that there are about 16 or…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Highly Recommended 90–94ptsDomaine Pique-Basse, Au Cœur du Ventabren, Roaix 2015 Decanter average score: 94/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 95 John Livingstone-Learmonth 93 Matt Walls 93N/A UK www.pique-basse.comLots of aromatic potential: garrigue and smoky bacon with prunes underneath. The palate issues sparky fruit in a modern yet beguiling style which never strays far from its illustrious provenance. An engaging wine from this underrated village. Drink 2017-2020 Alcohol 14.5%Domaine Martin, Cairanne 2015 90 SF 89 JLL 88 MW 92£12 Voddens VintagesThere is a joyfully sweet Grenache character here, with additional impetus from the Syrah plus rounded, poised tannins. Deft use of oak adds to the texture but doesn’t detract from the fruit. It has local imprint. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14.7%Gabriel Meffre, St-Mapalis, Plan de Dieu 2015 90 SF 90 JLL 90 MW…3 min
Decanter|March 2017Simon Field MW• Domaine Pique-Basse, Au Cœur du Ventabren, Roaix 2015 Roaix is undervalued in the UK, partly because is tricky to pronounce, partly because it has been long overshadowed by neighbour, Rasteau, now a cru. Hats off to this super example. 95 Drink 2017-2020• Domaine Gramenon, L’Elémentaire, Valréas 2015 The cool clay soils of Valréas often yield real vins de plaisir, with juicy red fruit and a regal elegance. This domaine is new to me, but more than rises to the challenge of such impressive descriptors in this superlative vintage. 94 Drink 2017-2020• Domaine du Val des Rois, Valréas 2015 With two Valréas in my top three, it’s not hard to discern which village impressed me most at the tasting… Silky generosity, red fruit charm and spice on the finish. Terrific!…1 min
Decanter|March 2017John Livingstone-Learmonth• Domaine Pique-Basse, Au Cœur du Ventabren, Roaix 2015 Olivier Tropet, fourth generation at the Cave de Roaix-Séguret, made his first Roaix in 2008. His signature is fresh elegance from high vineyards. This is from 1970s vines at 320m. 93 Drink 2017-2020• Domaine Gramenon, L’Elémentaire, Valréas 2015 I have a soft spot for this pioneer organic domaine, whose wines hold brilliant fruit purity. This Valréas is from 1970s Grenache at 400m. 94 Drink 2017-2020• Les Chemins de Sève, L Massart, Apanage, Cairanne 2015 Loïc Massart made his first wine in 2014 and works his 9ha organically. This is half Grenache, half Syrah, the vines over 50 years old. 91 Drink 2018-2021…1 min
